We arrived in Frankfurt without any hitches and walked through the arrivals doors and there was a tall slender, fair haired, friendly face to greet us.
Thomas.
It has been 2 years since we saw each other and it was great to see him again.
On the way home to Darmstadt, Thomas made a small detour to buy some fresh asparagus from a road side stall. This isnt just any asparagus, but the large, pure white kind that has only a very short season - and this is exactly the season. Each spear was around 200 mm long and about as thick as a carrot. They require peeling and then boiling for around 15 minutes in a special long thin cooking pot with a basket inside. They have a more delicate flavour and are really delicious.
Thomas' girlfriend Simone joined us for dinner and we all sat around peeling asparagus, preparing dinner and chatting about life in general and mostly about tango life and the different customs between countries. It was a great night and Simone speaks very good English so the conversation was lively and interesting.
This morning there are 4 empty wine bottles by the door :)
Sorry no pictures this time. But next post will have pictures of Darmstadt. I did mean to take a picture of the asparagus but we had eaten it all before I remembered again :)
Friday 27 April 2012
Thursday 26 April 2012
Rome
yes Rome :)
What can I say?
We arrived on Tuesday evening and had a driver waiting for us with our name on a card at the airport. Its nice to start off easy in a new city and a new language, rather than fight our way through the crowds to a taxi and then explain where we want to go.
We were an hour or more later lsnding than expected and so by the time we got to the hotel, showered (13 hour flight remember) and then went wandering looking for food, it was about 9pm and dark. We asked at the hotel and were told to walk a little way down the street and we would find some restaurants. This was true, and we found a lovely wee spot where we managed to clean up some pasta, soup, pizza and a bottle of wine between us and then head back to the hotel for some decent sleep - lying down this time.
We had all of Wednesday being tourists in Rome. It has been 10 years since we were here and we visited the Trevi Fountain to throw in the 3 coins that Mum had so carefully wrapped up and sent with us from NZ. I thought they were supposed to be for good luck!
Anyway, our one day of being tourists in Rome co-incided with their public holiday to commemorate the end of WW2. A bit like our Anzac day - and also on 25th April. Of course that meant that there were literally thousands of people in Rome central on the same day as us. However it was still a great day and we revisited some of the things we had seen 10 years ago and also just generally absorbed the feeling of Rome.
This is just a tiny amount of the crowd around the Trevi Fountain. I doubt if I could have got close enough to throw coins in this time!
Its a beautiful fountain and no wonder it is so popular.
The crowds were so enormous that we were almost carried along in a wave from place to place.
The Spanish Steps were so covered in people you could hardly tell there were steps there. There were a lot of huge potted azaleas and rhododendrons which were in full flower and placed for maximum effect.
What can I say?
We arrived on Tuesday evening and had a driver waiting for us with our name on a card at the airport. Its nice to start off easy in a new city and a new language, rather than fight our way through the crowds to a taxi and then explain where we want to go.
We were an hour or more later lsnding than expected and so by the time we got to the hotel, showered (13 hour flight remember) and then went wandering looking for food, it was about 9pm and dark. We asked at the hotel and were told to walk a little way down the street and we would find some restaurants. This was true, and we found a lovely wee spot where we managed to clean up some pasta, soup, pizza and a bottle of wine between us and then head back to the hotel for some decent sleep - lying down this time.
We had all of Wednesday being tourists in Rome. It has been 10 years since we were here and we visited the Trevi Fountain to throw in the 3 coins that Mum had so carefully wrapped up and sent with us from NZ. I thought they were supposed to be for good luck!
Anyway, our one day of being tourists in Rome co-incided with their public holiday to commemorate the end of WW2. A bit like our Anzac day - and also on 25th April. Of course that meant that there were literally thousands of people in Rome central on the same day as us. However it was still a great day and we revisited some of the things we had seen 10 years ago and also just generally absorbed the feeling of Rome.
This is just a tiny amount of the crowd around the Trevi Fountain. I doubt if I could have got close enough to throw coins in this time!
Its a beautiful fountain and no wonder it is so popular.
The crowds were so enormous that we were almost carried along in a wave from place to place.
The Spanish Steps were so covered in people you could hardly tell there were steps there. There were a lot of huge potted azaleas and rhododendrons which were in full flower and placed for maximum effect.
We walked to the top of the steps and looked back down to the people below.
We headed back to the hotel for a wee rest and then out for dinner at the same place as last night. It was lovely to be greeted with "Hello, lovely to see you again", as if we were regulars. We explained to the waitress that we were only coming in for a light meal tonight as we were going dancing.
So yes, we danced tango in Rome. We went to Il Giardino del Tango and it was a smallish venue which happened to be having a visiting couple dancing a demo. They were Lorena Ermocida and Fabian Peralta who were great dancers. We are not so keen on show tango but the opportunity to watch them live is quite compelling.
Therefore that meant there were over 300 people in an area that would more confortably fit 100. The seating was so limited and so after we danced, we then had to stand around the edges. It was totally impossible to view potential partners either on or off the floor, and also to rest weary legs after an already busy day. However we are pleased we went and would like to go there again on a normal night.
We left after the demo and got back to the hotel at about 1.30am. We had to pack and be ready downstairs by 7.30am the next morning so it was a fairly hectic time after we returned. Only 3 1/2 hours sleep.Now thats why I am feeling tired!
Rome was just beautiful this morning. A crisp and clear spring day and not a breath of wind. The flight to Vienna was smooth and clear and we had a good view of the countryside most of the way. Its a pity we are only in transit through Vienna. Thats another trip I think!
We will be in Frankfurt in around 3 hours............
Wednesday 25 April 2012
Final Day in Buenos Aires
Monday was our last day - for this trip - in Buenos aires and we decided to be total tourists and go searching for some things to see that we hadnt already seen.
We had coffee at Martinez - one of Neville's recommendations and sat at a table outside in the sun. That was nice :)
Next it was a subte ride down the B line and much further than we have been before. We particularly wanted to visit the Chacarita Cemetary where Carlos Gardel is buried - and many others of course. It is an absolutely enormous cemetary. The structures to house the bodies of multiple family members (a bit like a crypt I think) are called 'bovidas'. Some are very ornate and covered in marble and brass and others are in a shocking state of disrepair. Around this cemetary was the biggest wall i have possibly ever seen. It was at least 10 metres tall and so thick that there are rooms built into it. It runs around the total circumference which is many, many blocks.
After a bit of searching and no-one around to ask, we found Gardel. There was a huge bronze - bigger than lifesize - statue of him. In life he was a heavy smoker and was always seen with a cigarette in between his fingers. The statue has been made so that it looks as if he could be holding a cigarette. Possibly daily, random people come and puts a lit cigarette between his fingers and there was the butt of one there when we saw it, with a long complete ash on the end. Craig thinks it was Neville's. If he hadnt died in a plane crash he would have likely died of lung cancer.
Later we continued walking along and following this giant wall and after several hundred metres more, came to a large set of gates and the main entrance. There were several plaques acknowledging the enormous toll that the 'yellow fever' epidemic had had on the city and many neighbourhoods were completely wiped out. Sad really.
This part of the cemetary had many, more grand, structures (bovidas) and the state of them was hugely varied. Some looked like mini Roman temples. It looks a lot older too.
After that there was time for a last drink with Tanya at Medio y Medio, and then it was packing and sorting and leaving in a taxi.
We had coffee at Martinez - one of Neville's recommendations and sat at a table outside in the sun. That was nice :)
Next it was a subte ride down the B line and much further than we have been before. We particularly wanted to visit the Chacarita Cemetary where Carlos Gardel is buried - and many others of course. It is an absolutely enormous cemetary. The structures to house the bodies of multiple family members (a bit like a crypt I think) are called 'bovidas'. Some are very ornate and covered in marble and brass and others are in a shocking state of disrepair. Around this cemetary was the biggest wall i have possibly ever seen. It was at least 10 metres tall and so thick that there are rooms built into it. It runs around the total circumference which is many, many blocks.
After a bit of searching and no-one around to ask, we found Gardel. There was a huge bronze - bigger than lifesize - statue of him. In life he was a heavy smoker and was always seen with a cigarette in between his fingers. The statue has been made so that it looks as if he could be holding a cigarette. Possibly daily, random people come and puts a lit cigarette between his fingers and there was the butt of one there when we saw it, with a long complete ash on the end. Craig thinks it was Neville's. If he hadnt died in a plane crash he would have likely died of lung cancer.
Later we continued walking along and following this giant wall and after several hundred metres more, came to a large set of gates and the main entrance. There were several plaques acknowledging the enormous toll that the 'yellow fever' epidemic had had on the city and many neighbourhoods were completely wiped out. Sad really.
This part of the cemetary had many, more grand, structures (bovidas) and the state of them was hugely varied. Some looked like mini Roman temples. It looks a lot older too.
After that there was time for a last drink with Tanya at Medio y Medio, and then it was packing and sorting and leaving in a taxi.
Monday 23 April 2012
Last few Days In Buenos Aires
I just cant believe that I am now sitting at the airport in Buenos Aires waiting to board our flight to Rome. What happened to Buenos Aires? Our time here has gone by so quickly in a blur of very late nights (or maybe more accurately - early mornings). We achieved most of what we planned to do while we were here. The dancing has been great. In fact we were amongst the last to leave Nino Bien at 4am last Thursday night.
After a long sleep in on Friday morning, we headed back to Raquel because I decided I couldn't live without the other pair of shoes I tried on there earlier in the week. I had planned to buy only 1 new pair this trip...oh well rules are made to be broken.
Decided not to go dancing Friday night because frankly, we were just a wee bit tired after 7 nights of late dancing in a row. So instead we went to a lovely wee restaurant just down the road called Las Canas and had a beautiful meal of steak and salad and wine. Just what we needed. We tend to eat quite lightly when we are dancing and both of us felt that a good hearty steak was in order. It is a lovely little spot and we sat outside in amongst the trees. Very romantic dining - even for old fellas like us :)
Saturday night, with batteries recharged we went to a new milonga called "Villa Malcolm'. Its quite a long way out and we went there on the subte, plus a taxi for the last 12 blocks. The dancing was great :). On the way back at 3am, it was too late for the subte (closes at 10.30 ish) so we took the colletivo bus. Talk about sardines! It was hilarious and we overcame our reluctance to use the buses. Thanks to Tanya for her patient explanations on how they work. So cheap too - but if you want to sit down - forget it!
Sunday was a quiet day and involved a leasurely breakfast and then a subte ride to Las Violetas.
This is the most beautiful cafe that we have possibly ever seem. I know I raved on about cafe Tortoni in my last blog but this was just beautiful. We thought of Marna when we saw all the beautiful tiny sweet cakes to have with a coffee. Each was only a mouthful, or else 2 small bites if you want to prolong the pleasure. Our coffees came with 2 different ones each - complimentary. We each had a couple of medialunas as it was going to be our lunch. Would have liked to stay and just absorb the atmosphere but we were heading to San Telmo for a browse.
Sunday night was our last night of dancing so we went somewhere we knew and enjoyed. La Nazional :) It was a truly great night. We both danced until we could barely walk home - well me anyway! I wore my old pink shoes and that was just as well as any of the new ones would have crippled me after dancing for so long. I danced once with Craig to start and then the next 8 tandas in a row. I hardly even got a sip of water between dancers. It was great and a marvellous way to leave the dancing of Buenos Aires. Every time I looked over to where Craig was seated - he was dancing and not sitting in his chair. You have probably guessed by now that we were sitting separately. Its very normal to do this - even though it totally freaks me out to start with.
More to come - ready to board :)
After a long sleep in on Friday morning, we headed back to Raquel because I decided I couldn't live without the other pair of shoes I tried on there earlier in the week. I had planned to buy only 1 new pair this trip...oh well rules are made to be broken.
Decided not to go dancing Friday night because frankly, we were just a wee bit tired after 7 nights of late dancing in a row. So instead we went to a lovely wee restaurant just down the road called Las Canas and had a beautiful meal of steak and salad and wine. Just what we needed. We tend to eat quite lightly when we are dancing and both of us felt that a good hearty steak was in order. It is a lovely little spot and we sat outside in amongst the trees. Very romantic dining - even for old fellas like us :)
Saturday night, with batteries recharged we went to a new milonga called "Villa Malcolm'. Its quite a long way out and we went there on the subte, plus a taxi for the last 12 blocks. The dancing was great :). On the way back at 3am, it was too late for the subte (closes at 10.30 ish) so we took the colletivo bus. Talk about sardines! It was hilarious and we overcame our reluctance to use the buses. Thanks to Tanya for her patient explanations on how they work. So cheap too - but if you want to sit down - forget it!
Sunday was a quiet day and involved a leasurely breakfast and then a subte ride to Las Violetas.
This is the most beautiful cafe that we have possibly ever seem. I know I raved on about cafe Tortoni in my last blog but this was just beautiful. We thought of Marna when we saw all the beautiful tiny sweet cakes to have with a coffee. Each was only a mouthful, or else 2 small bites if you want to prolong the pleasure. Our coffees came with 2 different ones each - complimentary. We each had a couple of medialunas as it was going to be our lunch. Would have liked to stay and just absorb the atmosphere but we were heading to San Telmo for a browse.
Sunday night was our last night of dancing so we went somewhere we knew and enjoyed. La Nazional :) It was a truly great night. We both danced until we could barely walk home - well me anyway! I wore my old pink shoes and that was just as well as any of the new ones would have crippled me after dancing for so long. I danced once with Craig to start and then the next 8 tandas in a row. I hardly even got a sip of water between dancers. It was great and a marvellous way to leave the dancing of Buenos Aires. Every time I looked over to where Craig was seated - he was dancing and not sitting in his chair. You have probably guessed by now that we were sitting separately. Its very normal to do this - even though it totally freaks me out to start with.
More to come - ready to board :)
Thursday 19 April 2012
More Buenos Aires
The above picture is in the docks area of BA and more specifically shows the bridge named Puente de Mujer - translates to 'The bridge of women'.The centre part opens and swings around to let boats pass up the river. You also walk across it too, so it is a real bridge! It is beautiful though.
There are also 2 old sailing ships moored on the docks and you can pay $2 pesos (around 70 cents) each to go inside for a look. First time for us on one of these boats and it was really amazing. How they could live and work in such small areas is incredible. we got a look inside one of the cabins and the bed was only about 18 inches wide.
No dancing at El Beso this week as it is closed. Word on the street is that the building has lost its certification. Not sure what that means and how long it will be unavailable.
Danced at Confiteria Ideal again on Tuesday (we had planned to go to El Beso). It was a small crowd but we had an incredible night. There was a great group of Venezuelans sitting behind us and during a tanda of latin music that they play between tangos sometimes (ie salsa and merengue), they danced like we have never seen before. All our old ballroom dancing lessons (from around 2001) of these styles would have looked ridulous beside them. They were such fun as a group.
The funniest couple that we have seen at 'Ideal' almost every time we go there, were there again, and S & J will know who I mean. They seem to be dancing to a completely different song. Just thank goodness they always dance together. They are hilarious to watch and quite celebrities in their own way.
Last night dancing was at La Nazional club run this time by Mi Refugio. It was totally packed and we were put at a tiny table with a couple from Paris, who were already there and initially not impressed that we had been squeezed in. All ok after introductions though :)
They had a live band called 'Sans Souci' playing for an hour or more and they were incredible. It was like listening to a CD. Several of them would have been in their 80's. One of the older chaps was just incredible on the bandoneon.
http://www.todotango.com/english/creadores/guardiajoven_bio.asp?id=1854
Today we wandered around the Botancial Gardens for the afternoon, enjoying the lovely weather and seeking out some shade to sit and look at the scenery. It was another hot day today. A couple of days ago we both commented that we hadnt seen any cats around the city - mind you theres not a lot of places for them to live. Apartments - I dont think so! Anyway, today we saw at least 20 or 30 just lazing around in the gardens and therefore there must have been at least another 50 that we didnt actually see. They were well fed and healthy looking and very friendly too. This one just looked like our old cat Soph (Sophie) and she was very relaxed and happy to have me right beside her. There were cats of all colours and long and short hair too, so not just moggies.
Tuesday 17 April 2012
Warm Buenos Aires
After a few days of orientation to this huge and busy city, we are finally having a quiet day today to get a few jobs done. I had been going to start this blog sooner but just havent had a chance to sit down for long enough to write anything meaningful.
We are well settled and spread out all over Neville's lovely modern apartment. In fact it looks as if we have been here for much longer than 5 days. Thankyou Neville.
As you are all probably aware, we have been to BA several times now - and all for the same sorts of reasons. Initially though, it was possibly more as a curiosity to see and feel the city that was giving us the music and the dance that we were growing to love so much. And after that, well Buenos Aires just gets into your head. After the second visit you stop being surprised, or shocked, at the physical shabbiness of what was once a grand and beautiful city. The architecture is just fantastic and shabby comes with age. On the whole the people are very friendly and patient as we navigate our way around menus in Spanish - with me holding a small phrase book as a food translator discretely under the table. There is some English spoken but generally not a lot. I have found a few can understand Italian and can use that a little bit.
We have been dancing at several milongas so far. Firstly at Ideal on Friday night, It was a busy night there with a floor show on during the latter part of the evening. We arrived about midnight after a lovely meal at a little old restaurant a few blocks away called Bodega Campo, where we sat in front of windows which were folded all the way back to let in the lovely calm and fresh evening air. It was still about 25 degrees. The whole atmosphere was really lovely, as was the food, and we really had to drag ourselves away. I could have easily sat there for another hour with another glass of wine and just breathed in the essence of the city. However dancing was not going to wait for us so off we went.
The evening at Ideal was really great and a relaxed way to settle back into the difference of dancing in BA. It was a good night and we walked home the 5 blocks or so down Avenida Corrientes at 3am feeling very content. Tried to stop at a couple of places for a coffee but everyone was starting to close. I am sure we could have quite easily found somewhere open if we looked hard enough, but we werent that desperate so just went home. Its amazing how many people are out and about at that time.
On Saturday we went to El Arranque for the afternoon milonga 3-9pm. That was a very busy one with a very busy dance floor. We were amongst the younger minority there. We have been there on several other ocassions and the mix of dancers is very different each time. Afterwards to walked home - only 2 blocks - and showered and went out for dinner at 11. We were actually quite early! The restaurant didnt fill until after 12 and there were still people arriving for dinner when we left at 1am. We both had fantastic Argentinian steak and a huge salad and a bottle of cheap local wine. The wine was less than $10 NZ and extremely good.
On Sunday we took the subte to Belgrano for a look around that area. We hadnt been there before and its a very smart area of BA. There is a huge park there called Barrancas de Belgrano and on Sunday evenings a group called La Glorieta run a milonga inside the huge band rotunda. We didnt stay late enough to experience the milonga but we did see the venue and its gorgeous. The park has one of the biggest trees we have ever seen. There are several other whoppers around the city too, but this one was massive.
We headed back to our old haunt of San Telmo and more specifically back to our favourite corner pub called El Federal. One of the waiters from our last visit was working that day and he remembered us straight away. When we stayed in BA last year, this was our local and we went there most days for a drink or a meal. Gorgeous old original pub. Plus they serve a basket of roasted peanuts in their shell for you to de-shell and nibble while you have your drink. Its a fun thing to do.
Back to the apartment for showers and more dancing. This time we decided to go to La Nacional. We were going to go to El Beso but it was closed for some reason that night. But La Nacional was fantastic and we were so pleased we went there. The music was just the best of the best that we both love so much and we just danced and danced. We arrived fairly late at midnight, but the booklet said the milonga went until 3am - when in fact it was until 2am. However it was still a great night and we went home happy. An easy walk of a few blocks too.
Yesterday was Monday and it was 'all about shoes' day. We walked to Neo Tango but didnt find anything to take my fancy so headed off to Raquel. I just love this salon but our attendant was not Raquel this time. She was efficient but didnt have the personality of Raquel and didnt feel as happy with the visit. Raquel has a way of making the visit feel amazing. I did however buy one pair of lovely shoes. For those readers who have never been to 'Raquel' I feel I need to describe the salon.
Firstly we are in a normal street in San Telmo. Picture narrow footpath wide enough for 2 people with a lot of broken paving and graffiti and a fair amount of street rubbish. There a several enormous grand and ornate wooden doors opening onto the footpath. One of these doors is the destination we are seeking. A huge pair of wooden doors with a wee window in one of them covered in wrought iron bars. I ring the bell and our attentant's face appears in the bars and she unlocks the doors. Inside it is the most amazing salon. Chandeliers, polished wooden floors with beautiful rugs and comfortable antique suite to sit on. There is a large display of shoes on one wall. The attendant asks what you are looking for and then leaves through another large door and re-emerges with boxes of shoes to try on. As you discard some, she goes away and brings more, until there are no more in your size to bring. Its an amazing way to sell shoes and quite an experience if you have a very interactive saleswoman - like Raquel - who we didnt have this time :)
Last night more dancing at La Nacional but with different organisers. Another great night and we both danced with several others. Craig with a lady from Brazil who had travelled 3 hours to get to the milonga, and 2 local ladies. All spoke some English. I danced with a local and he was great, plus 2 visiting frenchmen. We stopped at the local corner pub for a bite to eat afterwards and were the last customers to leave at around 1.30am.
More dancing tonight and this time at El Beso
We are well settled and spread out all over Neville's lovely modern apartment. In fact it looks as if we have been here for much longer than 5 days. Thankyou Neville.
As you are all probably aware, we have been to BA several times now - and all for the same sorts of reasons. Initially though, it was possibly more as a curiosity to see and feel the city that was giving us the music and the dance that we were growing to love so much. And after that, well Buenos Aires just gets into your head. After the second visit you stop being surprised, or shocked, at the physical shabbiness of what was once a grand and beautiful city. The architecture is just fantastic and shabby comes with age. On the whole the people are very friendly and patient as we navigate our way around menus in Spanish - with me holding a small phrase book as a food translator discretely under the table. There is some English spoken but generally not a lot. I have found a few can understand Italian and can use that a little bit.
We have been dancing at several milongas so far. Firstly at Ideal on Friday night, It was a busy night there with a floor show on during the latter part of the evening. We arrived about midnight after a lovely meal at a little old restaurant a few blocks away called Bodega Campo, where we sat in front of windows which were folded all the way back to let in the lovely calm and fresh evening air. It was still about 25 degrees. The whole atmosphere was really lovely, as was the food, and we really had to drag ourselves away. I could have easily sat there for another hour with another glass of wine and just breathed in the essence of the city. However dancing was not going to wait for us so off we went.
The evening at Ideal was really great and a relaxed way to settle back into the difference of dancing in BA. It was a good night and we walked home the 5 blocks or so down Avenida Corrientes at 3am feeling very content. Tried to stop at a couple of places for a coffee but everyone was starting to close. I am sure we could have quite easily found somewhere open if we looked hard enough, but we werent that desperate so just went home. Its amazing how many people are out and about at that time.
On Saturday we went to El Arranque for the afternoon milonga 3-9pm. That was a very busy one with a very busy dance floor. We were amongst the younger minority there. We have been there on several other ocassions and the mix of dancers is very different each time. Afterwards to walked home - only 2 blocks - and showered and went out for dinner at 11. We were actually quite early! The restaurant didnt fill until after 12 and there were still people arriving for dinner when we left at 1am. We both had fantastic Argentinian steak and a huge salad and a bottle of cheap local wine. The wine was less than $10 NZ and extremely good.
On Sunday we took the subte to Belgrano for a look around that area. We hadnt been there before and its a very smart area of BA. There is a huge park there called Barrancas de Belgrano and on Sunday evenings a group called La Glorieta run a milonga inside the huge band rotunda. We didnt stay late enough to experience the milonga but we did see the venue and its gorgeous. The park has one of the biggest trees we have ever seen. There are several other whoppers around the city too, but this one was massive.
We headed back to our old haunt of San Telmo and more specifically back to our favourite corner pub called El Federal. One of the waiters from our last visit was working that day and he remembered us straight away. When we stayed in BA last year, this was our local and we went there most days for a drink or a meal. Gorgeous old original pub. Plus they serve a basket of roasted peanuts in their shell for you to de-shell and nibble while you have your drink. Its a fun thing to do.
Back to the apartment for showers and more dancing. This time we decided to go to La Nacional. We were going to go to El Beso but it was closed for some reason that night. But La Nacional was fantastic and we were so pleased we went there. The music was just the best of the best that we both love so much and we just danced and danced. We arrived fairly late at midnight, but the booklet said the milonga went until 3am - when in fact it was until 2am. However it was still a great night and we went home happy. An easy walk of a few blocks too.
Yesterday was Monday and it was 'all about shoes' day. We walked to Neo Tango but didnt find anything to take my fancy so headed off to Raquel. I just love this salon but our attendant was not Raquel this time. She was efficient but didnt have the personality of Raquel and didnt feel as happy with the visit. Raquel has a way of making the visit feel amazing. I did however buy one pair of lovely shoes. For those readers who have never been to 'Raquel' I feel I need to describe the salon.
Firstly we are in a normal street in San Telmo. Picture narrow footpath wide enough for 2 people with a lot of broken paving and graffiti and a fair amount of street rubbish. There a several enormous grand and ornate wooden doors opening onto the footpath. One of these doors is the destination we are seeking. A huge pair of wooden doors with a wee window in one of them covered in wrought iron bars. I ring the bell and our attentant's face appears in the bars and she unlocks the doors. Inside it is the most amazing salon. Chandeliers, polished wooden floors with beautiful rugs and comfortable antique suite to sit on. There is a large display of shoes on one wall. The attendant asks what you are looking for and then leaves through another large door and re-emerges with boxes of shoes to try on. As you discard some, she goes away and brings more, until there are no more in your size to bring. Its an amazing way to sell shoes and quite an experience if you have a very interactive saleswoman - like Raquel - who we didnt have this time :)
Last night more dancing at La Nacional but with different organisers. Another great night and we both danced with several others. Craig with a lady from Brazil who had travelled 3 hours to get to the milonga, and 2 local ladies. All spoke some English. I danced with a local and he was great, plus 2 visiting frenchmen. We stopped at the local corner pub for a bite to eat afterwards and were the last customers to leave at around 1.30am.
More dancing tonight and this time at El Beso
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